You have 2 trucks with emission components. However, when you start bragging about actively getting around the law, you increase your chances of getting caught. I may or may not have bypassed required components on 1 or more of my own vehicles. That being said, advertising the fact that you are removing or defeating the devices (or making it obvious that components are missing should the vehicle ever be inspected) on a public message board probably isn't the smartest thing you can do.ĭon't get me wrong.if my truck had an unnecessary (government mandated, though not otherwise necessary) component which broke or malfunctioned, and that component was expensive to repair or replace, and I could bypass or remove that component and continue to operate my truck with relative ease.let's just say I wouldn't be spending an arm and a leg making repairs. All those seeking to remove EPA required devices should probably read through it.getting caught can be pretty expensive for you. I was searching for something else and came across this. All it does is open/close to regulate the flow of oil to move the EGR valve plunger/diverter back and forth to let exhaust to the egr cooler. It can easly be removed from the valve and plugged in to the engine harness. I have an EGR valve plunger/diverter break but the electronic actuator was still good. This would result in flow past the sensor but not back into the engine. I have wondered if it would be possible to plug the port leading to the venturi pipe and weld a new stub onto the mass flow tube which would be redirected back to the exhaust pipe.
#Egr remover keygen crack download how to
Everything will be removed so if anyone has any information on how to trick the computer to think the egr valve is still working operationally please contact me, I am willing to share any and all information with anyone interested in my circuit designs. We are now tapping into the electronic component side of the EGR valve itself, we recently had a cooler fail and it hydrolocked the motor, We are DONE replacing them. The EGR temperature sensor is very easy, a simple 270 ohm resistor, 1/2 watt resistor worked perfectly. The circuit passes so much power to these sensors that the computer side was rated at 250 degrees, taken from an infrared thermometer, and the ground side was reading 550 degrees. We had to use ceramic composite resistors thermally glued down onto a computer heatsink to dissipate the heat properly. The EGRMFS runs on AC CURRENT! NOT DC! This sounds bizzare but it is true! The problem you are having with the resistors is probably they are blowing up. The EGR mass flow is what is called a hot wire mass flow sensor, it measure flow by heating up an element like a toaster and as air passes through it it cools down and that is how the computer reads the changes in ohms readings. For those of you that are trying this method, plugging in the resistors into the back of the EECU, and are having problems I know what your problem is. The truck succesfully drove for a week without any problems and the EGR codes 5-8 and 5-9 never showed up. I have an engineering student working for me at my shop and he built the circuit to plug into the little computer behind the EECU, (the EGR Computer)for the EGR mass flow and temperature. OKAY, now for what you guys want to know. For me at my shop, the cooler break in 5 years I have replaced 10 EGR coolers, and it is getting to be expensive and not worth it at all. As everyone knows, only the CX's have problems and it is all due to the EGR. At my shop here in Northwest Indiana, I own 9 trucks, 2 CX, 5 CH, and 2 RD. Hello my name is Frank Ralston, and I am new here on bmt.com but I believe I have very valuable information to share.
0 kommentar(er)
